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Visitors at the Museum of Islamic Art. 

Visitors at the Museum of Islamic Art. 

Street Photography in Qatar

May 11, 2018

One worry I had when packing my bags ahead of a move to Doha, Qatar last August was that my photographic projects would suffer. The desert nation is not very pedestrian friendly and the summer heat can cause even the most robust cameras steam over, making photography next to impossible. 

The city is also a building site, gearing up for numerous high profile events such as the 2022 World Cup. A metro, that will connect much of the city, has resulted in traffic mayhem and areas such as of the corniche are gated off in parts. 

In addition to the above concerns, photography is banned in certain areas of the city and locals have been known to report people to authorities for highly trivial matters. The worry of upsetting a Qatari, who can get you arrested and deported with the right concern, and highly stratified areas only add to the challenge of getting 'the shot' in Qatar. 

A balloon salesman and a boy in Souq Waqif, Doha.

A balloon salesman and a boy in Souq Waqif, Doha.

However, it would be amiss to write off the country as a non-starter for candid street photography as with a little research and trial and error you can unlock areas that resemble an Indiana Jones set or narrow alleyways, reminiscent of the back streets of Delhi.

The place I frequented most in winter was Souq Waqif. One could be forgiven for believing it is a one of the few historical places in the country with its cobbled paths and peeling walls. Yet the large market, stacked with restaurants, coffee shops and stalls selling local gifts, was built in 2006 with a nod to traditional Arabian architecture.

Although, someone not afraid to upset local values could say the items or living things on sale do harp back to a bygone era. 

A Qatari band serenade Souq Waqif, Doha on a Friday night.

A Qatari band serenade Souq Waqif, Doha on a Friday night.

Souq Waqif is brimming with life on weekend evenings. Delivery men in unusual crimson uniforms swerve their trolleys through the crowds, locals puff on shisha pipes and market traders barter with customers over the price of gold, clothing and even animals such as dogs, cats and mongoose. 

On some nights local male and female bands serenade the crowds with Arabian music while on weekend mornings visitors can take in the bird market where pigeons are auctioned off, a reminder that despite the enormous wealth, and its trappings, the country has Arabic culture at its core. 

Fisherman untangles his nets at Doha's fish market on a Friday morning. 

Fisherman untangles his nets at Doha's fish market on a Friday morning. 

Away from the Souq, options for street photography can be limited but after meeting other photographers in the city I was recommended the Fish Market on the corniche at sunrise on a Friday morning, the start of the weekend in the Middle East. 

Although not brimming with the possibilities of Souq Waqif the Fish Market can yield some good results with the right light. Fisherman of largely south Asian descent can be seen hauling various types of plunder from the sea, across the jetty and to the stalls.

A Bangladeshi migrant worker in Doha.

A Bangladeshi migrant worker in Doha.

Crowds gather around the tents and barter with traders over the price of fish, shark, crab and even stingray.  

As the sun rises photographers usually migrate to a Bangladeshi area behind the Souq. The unpaved streets and crumbly building facades are a world away from the bright lights of the West Bay, where five star hotels and skyscrapers glimmer, giving a tantalising glimpse of Qatar's oil wealth.

To find the best shots you may have to weave into what appear to be abandoned buildings to find hidden markets and impromptu barber shops. The small rooms also make good spots for portrait photography providing you have a light and willing residents on hand. 

Doha is not a London, Hong Kong or Tokyo, cities with endless street photography options. Unless you live in one of the pedestrianised parts of the city it is difficult to walk out of your home and start snapping candid street shots straight away. You have to travel to certain areas at certain times to be able to shoot interesting dexterous documentary photography but it is possible due to fusion of people from across the globe who now call this small Arabian peninsula home.

Find more shots from Qatar here.   

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